Karakul lake (GBAO) - Alichur

We leave the remote village of Karakul in the morning, set on the windswept eastern shore of its namesake lake—one of the highest and most striking saltwater lakes in Central Asia. As we follow the Pamir Highway southward, the vastness of the Karakul basin surrounds us: wide open spaces, distant peaks, and a silence broken only by the wind and the movement of grazing yaks.

The road begins to climb steadily toward the Ak-Baital Pass, the highest paved road pass in Central Asia, reaching an elevation of 4,655 meters. The air grows thinner as we ascend, and the views become ever more dramatic—snow-streaked ridgelines, glacial valleys, and a profound sense of remoteness. On the left, we pass beneath Ak-Baital Peak (5,102 m), towering above the valley as part of the rugged Tuzkol massif.

After crossing the pass, we descend into the valley of the Ak-Baital River and soon arrive in Murghab, the main settlement of the Eastern Pamirs. We take time to visit the local bazaar, where Kyrgyz traders sell simple wares, Chinese imports, and the occasional handmade souvenir—a small window into life at the edge of the high plateau.

Leaving Murghab, the road stretches west through a wide and rocky plain. We pass through the Karasuu Valley, make photo stops at scenic viewpoints, and begin the gentle ascent to the Naizatash Pass (4,314 m). From there, we descend into a quieter, more remote part of the Pamirs.

Along the way, we stop to visit the sacred Ak-Balyk Lake, known for its crystal-clear spring waters, and the nearby Bash Gumbez tomb, a modest historical site from the Silk Road era. If luck is with us, we may catch a glimpse of Marco Polo sheep on the surrounding slopes—majestic, elusive, and perfectly adapted to this high-altitude world.

By late afternoon, we arrive in Alichur, a small Kyrgyz village perched at over 3,900 meters, known for its harsh climate and deep-rooted traditions. We settle into a local guesthouse, where the warmth of Pamiri hospitality contrasts with the raw beauty of the landscape outside.