Langar village - Murghab

We begin our ascent from the village of Langar, located at the confluence of the Pamir and Wakhan rivers, nestled deep in the southern Pamirs. After leaving the cultivated terraces and traditional stone homes of Langar behind, the road climbs gradually through a wild, remote landscape, hugging the Afghan border as it follows the course of the Pamir River.

We pass through stark mountain valleys and approach the Khargush Pass (4,344 meters), one of the highest and most rugged points on this journey. On the way, we encounter a series of small, shimmering salt lakes—Karadara, Khargush, and Chukurkul—whose colors shift with the light and the wind. Beyond the pass, the terrain opens up onto the wide Alichur Plateau, where the wind is ever-present and the air thin and crisp. Here we see more salt lakes, including the expansive Sasyk-Kel, and may encounter herds of yaks or nomadic camps in summer.

We make a short stop in the windswept village of Alichur, one of the highest and coldest permanently inhabited places in Central Asia. From here, we rejoin the asphalt road and continue northeast toward Murghab, traversing a landscape of empty plains and distant peaks. En route, we pause at the sacred Ak-Balyk Lake, a clear spring-fed pool believed to bring blessings. By late afternoon, we arrive in Murghab, the heart of the Eastern Pamirs, and settle into a local guesthouse for the night.

Note: The road between Langar and Alichur is closed by snow and avalanche risk during winter—travel is not recommended from January to April.